Tahoe is well known as a world-class ski and snowboard destination, but with nine resorts in the area it can be hard to know where to spend your time. Here’s a tip: If you’re a true powderhound, head straight to Kirkwood Mountain, a hidden gem tucked into the Eldorado National Forest 35 miles southwest of South Lake Tahoe.
You won’t find the dreaded “Sierra cement” here thanks to the phenomenon locals call the “K-factor,” the geographic ingredients that predispose storms to accumulate right over Kirkwood. The resort gets the most snow in the area, and due to its high base elevation, it’s also the lightest and driest. In fact, receiving an average of 300 to 600 inches of snow each winter, Kirkwood often has some of the deepest powder in North America. It’s a low-key resort without the glitz and glam, meaning it doesn’t have the best options available in Tahoe for shopping or partying. If your focus is on getting the most out of your day on the slopes, Kirkwood is the place for you.
History
From the nomadic Washoe Tribe, whose history in the area spans more than 9,000 years, to the gold-seekers and Mormon pioneers of the early to mid-1800s, people have used the land surrounding Kirkwood Mountain Resort for centuries. The resort is named after Zachary Kirkwood, an explorer who traveled from Ohio to California in the early 1860s in search of land to homestead. He couldn’t have picked a more picturesque locale: 160 acres in the valley surrounded by the soaring peaks of the Sierra Nevada. His ambitions soon grew well beyond having a parcel of land to graze his sheep and cattle. In 1864 he set up the Kirkwood Station, which served as a hostel, post office, and stage depot. It was a bar as well, but according to local legend during Prohibition it was on wheels, so it could be rolled away in case of a visit from the sheriff.
More than 150 years later, the Kirkwood Station is still standing. These days, however, it’s known as the Kirkwood Inn—an establishment owned by the Kirkwood Mountain Resort. A project led by businessman and ski enthusiast Bud Klein, the resort opened its doors in 1971. Vail Resorts bought Kirkwood Mountain Resort in 2012, and it is still going strong today.
Over the past couple of decades, Kirkwood saw some fairly major development, including the Kirkwood Mountain Village, which has a lodge, a sporting goods store, and condo units. These additions mean that Kirkwood now truly offers the best of both worlds: the comforts of a destination resort without sacrificing the laid-back atmosphere—and without the long lift lines.
Skiing and Riding
The ski and snowboard area encompasses more than 2,300 acres with 2,000 feet of vertical drop (the base elevation is 7,800 feet, and the summit is at 9,800 feet). There are 86 marked trails serviced by 15 lifts: 12 percent of the runs are beginner, 20 percent intermediate, 38 percent advanced, and 30 percent expert. There are plenty of groomers and also tons of potential for off-piste exploration, including trees, cornices, and rock features to navigate or jump if you like to get your adrenaline pumping.
The mountain gets steeper with elevation, so if you’re a beginner make sure you get your bearings straight on the bunny hills at the bottom (or sign up for a class with Kirkwood’s Ski School). If you are an intermediate skier and boarder, head to the backside or mid-mountain, while experts should head straight to the top. The two-mile long ridgeline on the summit provides ample opportunity for fun. Head to the Eagle Bowl for the best powder, and if you’re looking for a thrill don’t miss “The Wall,” an infamous, hair-raising double-black diamond run that features steep chutes, gullies, and cliff drops.
Apres and Dining
While Kirkwood doesn’t have the raucous après scene available at some other resorts in the area, there are still some great options for grabbing a bite and a brew. The historic Kirkwood Inn has tons of character and a good dinner selection. The 7800 Bar & Grill, located next to Chair #1, is a good spot for burgers and dancing. It’s a great place to fuel up, wind down, and get ready for another spectacular day on the mountain.
Don’t give out locals secrets.
I haven’t lived or skied in the Tahoe area in years but Kirkwood is one of my favorite. Awesome terrain, great steeps, and the deepest powder I’ve ever skied (40″). I want to come back.
Nah go to Heavenly 😉
Kirkwood skiers say, “Enjoy your day at Northstar!”
Agree with Steve. Heavenly is much better 🙂
Held a pass at kirkwood 72-79. Hiking to the wall was much more rewarding than taking a chair and maybe getting one fresh run than everyone then going to the top and skiing hourglass which now is out of bounds. Traversing across the ridge of chair 4 and skiing a frozen water with Mort a pro patrol was what Kirkwood so great in the day wild and free skied there last year still good mountain but not the same
I never skied Kirkwood downhill, as I only downhill skied on one leg, and at Mammoth many, many times. I had a robo knee installed 13 years ago and have skied Kirkwood Nordic dozens of times since then. Kirkwood Nordic is absolutely epic XC terrain. Difficult, crazy gorgeous, uncrowded, pristine grooming. Tahoe is world class for XC skiing, and Kirkwood is at the top, elevation and trail quality paramount consideration. The very best!
Kirkwood stands alone. I can sum up Kirkwood in one quote from their ski patrol. We were there a few years ago during the worst snow year the area had ever seen. We skied heavenly one day and 80% of the mountain was closed and roped off. Kirkwood was mostly open… my brothers and I were picking our way along a ridge. Ski patrol was a few hundred feet below us.
“Yo. Bro. Have you ever been down there?” Ski patrol
“No”
“Mandatory air bro”
“Alright, we will head the other way”
“No bro, hit it if you want, just don’t want you getting in over your head”.
There was about a 20′ rock cliff just on the other side of us with almost no snow on it, but plenty of tracks going over it.
Other ski areas close areas if there is one hazard, Kirkwood marks cliffs with one orange pole.
Skier beware, if you want challenging terrain, Kirkwood has it and no one will stop you from exploring it.
I’ve had the same experience with Kirkwood and their awesome ski patrol staff. Quote: me “Can we ski this section”. Patrol “No that’s out of bounds, well…. Ski it if you want to and we will get you out if you get in over your head.” That’s why I keep coming back right there! A true skiers mountain!
Had the privilege of skiing Kirkwood on a very cold Christmas day in 2014. Virtually every lift operator, checker, ski patrol, ticket sales, and janitor took the time to wish me Merry Christmas. It made for a memorable day.
I’ve skied every resort in Tahoe. My favorite is Kirkwood!!!
Heavenly is definitely a better mountain.
Heavenly is a prettier mountain but inferior runs and snow quality. I like both, but Kirkwood is better and higher level skiing.
Hilarious…
Northstar and Heavenly’s CA side are definitely waaaay better.